A bunch of grapes: Why some single-region wines now use fruit from different places

Why has Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz changed from the historic single region of Grampians to Grampians and Heathcote? Is it cheaper to make?

—R.S., Lane Cove, Sydney

Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz, a smooth, full-bodied shiraz originally named Chalambar Burgundy, was first produced at the Seppelt Great Western winery in Victoria’s Grampians (about two-and-a-half hours’ drive northwest of Melbourne) in the early 1950s and, in those days, was probably largely composed of Great Western grapes.

But as the brand grew, its maker had to include grapes from other regions, such as Rutherglen (northeast Victoria) and the Barossa Valley (South Australia), partly to keep the cost down and partly because Great Western grapes are a limited resource. The same thing happened with its running mate, Seppelt Moyston Claret.

In recent times, the owner of the Seppelt brand, Treasury Wine Estates, has decided to continue the brand using local fruit as well as grapes from Heathcote (in central Victoria).

Heathcote shiraz grapes probably cost much the same as those grown in the Grampians (a region that includes areas from Warrak and Ararat, through Great Western and Stawell to Horsham), but this is a moot point since Treasury grows the Heathcote grapes at its own Mount Ida vineyard.

“Our finite fruit resource means that we need to look outside the region for complementary grapes.”

Chalambar winemaker Clare Dry

Winemaker Clare Dry says Chalambar comprises more Grampians grapes now than it has since the very early days. She explains that in the ’90s they were using grapes from several Victorian regions but, since 2013, it’s been just Grampians and Heathcote, with Heathcote supplying about 20 per cent of the blend (it’s usually 15-30 per cent).

“I’d love to make a Grampians-labelled wine for Chalambar,” says Dry, “but our finite fruit resource means that we need to look outside the region for complementary grapes.

“Given we have a presence in Heathcote already with our Mount Ida vineyard, this area is a natural choice. We know the area and think the depth of fruit and the gravelly tannins match the aromatics and vibrancy of the Grampians fruit well.”

I agree that Chalambar is a very good red and excellent value at about $27. It also ages beautifully and I don’t think that potential has been compromised.

Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au