Polka dots, flying pigs and pockets: How to launch a fashion label
To join PE Nation, Aje Athletica and Camilla and Marc on the front line of Australian fashion, the obvious path is paved with athleisure wear, beige bralettes and black blazers.
Designer Monika Branagan is taking the road less travelled, unveiling a debut collection crammed with Elizabethan ruffled collars, bold polka dot blouses and prints of flying pigs.
Fashion designer Monika Branagan (centre) with models Shanesse Wong and Tori Michael. Credit: Louise Kennerley
Those airborne pigs could be metaphors for a start-up’s success in the struggling fashion industry, where labels are closing and sales are soft. For Branagan, the porcine print represents a determination to do things her way or go down in a blaze of pink blazers trying.
Dressing the niche crowd
“I just can’t make a grey jumper,” Branagan says. “I’m interested in dressing people who are not afraid to take risks, like those in the movie The Greatest Showman. As the song says, This is Me.”
The empowering tune has become a mantra for Branagan as she transitions from a successful interior design career in Sydney to creating whimsical blazers and sailor suits for her budding online store.
‘Perhaps launching a label in the middle of a cost of living crisis was not the best idea, but this is … about pursuing creativity.’
Fashion designer Monika Branagan
“I was working in interiors for 20 years and the burning desire to have my own label, which has been with me since I was growing up in the eighties, has not gone away. I had to do something about it,” she says.
“Perhaps launching a label in the middle of a cost of living crisis was not the best idea, but this is about more than money. It’s about pursuing creativity and building a brand. If I can do that, then I am sure I can turn things around.”
“I am hoping that by the third collection I can break even.”
Swinging sixties
Chelsea Street Designs is a new Australian label drawing inspiration from London’s swinging sixties.
Former legal support professional Amber Lochhead is giving herself 18 months to see if customers are ready to step off the trend hamster wheel and embrace Chelsea Street Designs, a collection of sixties-style tunic dresses.
“It’s been in the works for years and years, so launching now is just bad luck,” Lochhead says. “It’s not something I’m going to get down about. I firmly believe in these dresses.”
“I love fashion and wanted to create something easy to wear, that feels luxurious and of course has pockets.”
There is a palpable passion for fashion from Lochhead and Branagan but taking a fiercely independent approach to launching labels, without investors or support from major stockists, is challenging.
“No one wants to share information in fashion,” Lochhead says. “I was determined to make things in Australia, but people won’t tell you who their manufacturers or pattern cutters are. It’s like a vault.
“Competition is fierce.”
Securing support from fashion magazines or social media influencers is another challenging hurdle, especially with limited samples and a tiny marketing budget. That’s when bright polka dots and a sixties silhouette can help.
Stand out success
Gary Bigeni has been focusing on inclusivity since shifting his business model to made-to-order pieces two years ago.Credit: Kate Geraghty
Polka dots are familiar territory for designer Gary Bigeni, who transitioned from producing subdued and sophisticated traditional ranges to bold, gender-inclusive collections representing his colourful personality and values following a cancer diagnosis in 2017.
The personal approach is paying off, with his latest collection returning from New York, Milan and Paris showings.
“It does take time to get a foothold in the market,” Bigeni says. “Bolder pieces are harder to get across the line with some stores but in overseas showrooms, the buyers are drawn to pieces that stand out.
“The best thing you can do when starting out is to be known for doing one thing well. Find your uniqueness and build your business on that. Too many people spread themselves thinly and disappear.”
For Branagan, the “sew it and they will come” philosophy adds to the hope fuelling her enterprise.
“I’m taking a risk for the people willing to risk wearing it,” she says. “This is a time for risk-takers.”
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