Witchery has a new, edgier look. Reactions have been mixed
Getting attention in the crowded fashion space used to require elaborate stunts – think Coperni spraying Bella Hadid in paint – or runways in exclusive and exotic locations. Now, the stunt de jour seems to be hitting the “delete all” key on a brand’s Instagram, and letting the speculation begin.
Last week, it was Australian brand Witchery’s turn to hit the reboot button on its 54-year history, promising an edgier look under a new head designer, but with still the same dependability its customers have grown to love (but had fallen out of love with recently; more on that later).
Two designs from Witchery’s new range, including a bubble skirt (right), which has drawn mixed reactions.
But after scrubbing its Instagram profile last weekend and teasing the new look, the brand’s intended “soft” launch didn’t go entirely to plan.
So what was the brand aiming to do? Are the clothes any good? Why has there been a backlash? And what is with that controversial bubble skirt?
Why is Witchery trending?
Witchery, which is known for its workwear and elevated basics, has spent the past year reassessing its “offering” – fashion speak for what it sells, and to whom.
Acting general manager Jennifer Petropoulos says that despite strong brand awareness, sales had softened. “We had quite outdated perceptions of our brand,” she says.
“We were told we weren’t seen to be as edgy … and progressive [as other brands, or as we used to be]. And we were more workwear-centric than our customer wanted or needed.”
The brand, part of the Country Road Group, decided to bring in a new designer and a new direction. There has also been a renewed focus on higher quality fabrics, and using more natural fibres, such as wool and linen. Accessories and event wear will also return to the core range from spring.
But Petropoulos promises that doesn’t necessarily mean higher prices. “We see ourselves the bridging brand to Australian designer … and our price point needs to reflect that,” she says.
Why has there been backlash?
Kirby Hanrahan, Witchery’s new Head of Design.Credit: Simon Schluter
Heritage brands like Witchery have incredibly loyal customers, so “repositioning”, as Petropoulos puts it, is a big deal.
When some of the new pieces by head designer Kirby Hanrahan began appearing on Instagram last weekend, the reaction was swift. The most-talked about piece was a black bubble skirt – reviews ranged from “yessss!” to accusations it leant too far into fad-dressing.
Hanrahan agrees the bubble skirt is one of the more trend-driven pieces in the new range, but she says it has been designed intentionally with an elasticised waist so it can be styled to become a wardrobe classic. “It’s an emotive piece, but that’s what fashion is about,” she says. “It is a bit playful and fun.”
Has Witchery changed its sizing?
Not exactly. Most criticism of the launch has centred on the brand’s new sizing strategy, chiefly the removal of size 20, which Petropoulos says was done after “careful consideration” of sales and customer feedback. She adds that a full review of the size range was conducted to ensure greater consistency between styles, as well as a more “relaxed” fit in sizes 10 and above.
“Inclusivity is really important – we’re one of few brands in our category to offer a wide range of sizes in the main range,” she says.
In response to claims the brand had abandoned its curvier customers, the company uploaded several social media posts showing a mid-sized model and explained the sizing changes.
But did it all come too late?
Marian Makkar, RMIT University senior lecturer in marketing, says the Witchery example shows how “teasing” a major business change can sometimes backfire, as critics can easily home in on one element.
Makkar also questions the decision by brands to scrub their social media as a tool for heralding change. She says longstanding customers could be justified in feeling the brand is suddenly “embarrassed of something we’ve loved our whole lives”.
“If you erase [the social media], it can demonstrate you’re ashamed of it,” she says. “Rebranding is about communicating a new vision and goal. If a brand no longer aligns with their original vision it can be a good idea. But it can be quite risky.”
Where next for Witchery?
Petropoulos is urging customers to give the “bold awakening” time to play out. She compares Witchery’s regeneration to that of its sister brand, Country Road, which took about four years. “We have been deliberate about returning to our heritage, which includes being on trend,” she says.
Sizing controversy aside, the relaunch is resonating with customers; early sales were up 41 per cent on initial forecasts, Petropoulos says. “It takes time for the work to happen, the quality to be right, the supply chain to be right.”
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